29 April 2008

Bad Taste?

I made my triumphant return to the city of Bamberg a couple of weeks ago. Bamberg is home to approximately 70,000 people, and 9 breweries. The region around Bamberg is known as Franconia and has somewhere in the area of 50 breweries.

Everybody knows that Munich, which is in southern Bavaria, is home to the Oktoberfest and is arguably the beer capital of the world. What some do not know is that Franconia, which is in northern Bavaria, and has the highest density of breweries in the world. All in all … I’d have to say … I like Bavaria.

Cathedral in Bamberg

The Bamberg tourist office sells a self guided beer tour. For 24 Euros you get a map, a mug, a booklet about the breweries, a small rucksack, and five coupons for free beers. There are five breweries on one side of the river, and four on the other. You choose which side you want (if you choose the side with four, you can double up at one of them). The tickets are only good at the breweries on the side you choose.

We, of course, chose the side with five breweries. We started at the Spezial because they close early and we wanted to try their smoked beer. It was very good and we also ate lunch there.

Brauerei Spezial

We proceeded to wander around our side of the river, and soon realized that all of the breweries except one were within walking distance. So we did what every other red-blooded American male would do, and crossed over the river.

The fourth brewery on the new side being quite a haul away, we only hit three on the new side. We also ate dinner at one of the places on the new side. The highlight of the trip was the Shlenkerla Rauchweizen. It had the excellent body and yeasty feel of a nice hefeweizen, but it had the aroma and a bit of the flavor of smoked bacon. It was wonderful I’m telling ya.

We capped off the night at the Fässla where while sitting in the bier garten we spotted someone with a Döner kebap, and had to have one of those too. After our Döners and our final beer we decided it was time to crash. So we went upstairs to our rooms. Yes, you read that correctly, we were spending the night at the brewery. There are several breweries in Bamberg that have hotels attached, which is an awesome idea - if you ask me. The room was small, but comfortable and they had a decent breakfast there. The place was founded in 1649, but I am assured that it’s been updated since.

Last week I decided to try something that I had in Louisville a few years ago, but could find no recipe for. Smoked Jambalaya. I had it several times at a place called “Me Oh My Jambalaya”, which was run by this crazy old woman from Mobile, Alabama. She was a fantastic cook, but she was nuttier than squirrel shit. The first link that pops up when you Google “smoked jambalaya” is a review of the restaurant on a Louisville website. (The website also gave Flabby’s a four star review and is well worth you perusal if you are looking for good food in Louisville).

Even though I could find no recipes, I had a pretty good idea of what to do. I made some jambalaya using a recipe from Paul Prudhomme. I added a little more liquid than it called for. When I added the rice to the pot, I let it come to a boil. I took it off the heat and poured it into a shallow stainless steel pan. Then I put the pan into the smoker, which was already heated to around 200 degrees (F). I threw some grape vines in and the smoking began.

Everything but the rice was already cooked. I just gave it a good stir every 20 minutes or so, and threw some more vines in when the smoke was no longer visible from space. I called up some friends and invited them over for the experimental meal. After about 4 hours in the smoker it was ready to be served.

Smoked Jambalaya

You just know it had to be good (or I wouldn’t be telling you about this). What I was not really prepared for was the amount of smoke flavor and scent that it had. One day the following week, I took some in for lunch and reheated it in the microwave at work. Everyone was commenting on the smoke smell (not all were as happy as I was though).

So, I’ve decided to have a Kentucky Derby Party at my place in Hattenheim. If any of my loyal readers want to come, you’re definitely welcome. I think I can put both of you up for the evening. If the weather cooperates it should be a good time. I’ll have plenty of smoked meat, beer, wine, mint juleps, and plain ole Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey there. Although the race won’t happen until after midnight here, AFN is having race day coverage beginning at about 7 PM here. So we will get to watch some of the hoopla. As far as the meat goes, I’m thinking of doing some pork shoulder, maybe a turkey breast, possibly some lamb, and I’m thinking … although I’m not sure yet … but I am considering … the possibility of smoking … and serving … some … well … horse meat.

Do you think it’s in bad taste to serve horse meat at a Kentucky Derby Party?

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

T.

Saying that the lady at Me Oh My Jambalaya (as I recall her name was Isventia or some such) was nuttier than squirrel shit might be a bit of an understatement. But, she did hook you up with a genuine voodoo "root bag" for a nominal fee. So you got that going for you. Which is nice.

I wonder what happened to the crazy voodoo lady.

Smoked horse meat for your Derby party? I say you call the dish, "Derby Losers' Surprise".

Any restaurant review that gives Flabby's four stars is either; a)joking; 2) working on a one-hundred star system; or i) out of their mind. With all due respect, that food was barely digestable.

W.

Janie said...

Horse meat at a Derby Party - Sacrilidge!

Hotel at brewery - brilliant!

-Tony said...

Wilhelm,

Her name was/is Intisar (although I'm not sure of the spelling). I carried that Mojo Bag around for years and where'd it get me? I'm in Europe, drinking beer and wine, eating sausages with smelly cheese, and horse ... you know, come to think of it ... I'd like another one of those bags.